Jack O’Neill launched the first surf wear brand in 1952 when he opened the O’Neill surf shop in San Francisco, followed by his second more famous shop in Santa Cruz in 1959. Surf fashion, on the other hand, started in Hawaii. While it’s tempting to credit ancient Hawaiians who primarily surfed wearing a malo (a loincloth for men) or a pāʻū (a wraparound skirt for women) made from tapa cloth, their functional attire didn’t exactly align with how fashion is defined – a style of clothing and adornment that encompasses a broader industry, trends, and cultural phenomenon of self-expression that is a reflection of sociocultural moods of an era. For that, we look towards Dave Rochlen.
Dave Rochlen was a lifeguard and businessman from Santa Monica, California, who was also a notable figure in the Malibu surf scene throughout the late 1940s and early 1950s. During a visit to Hawaii in 1953, Rochlen fell for a local surfer by the name of Keanuenue Ka’eo, whom he married the same year. Less than a decade later he moved to Honolulu where he founded Surf Line Hawaii with fellow Californian Dick Metz, the man responsible for establishing the Hobie Surfboards brand in the archipelago. Recognizing an opportunity that surf retail had yet to tap into, Rochlen collaborated with his bride in designing a pair of Hawaiian print surf shorts that were repurposed from pajama pants. He named the brand JAMS and sold them from Surf Line Hawaii and in the Hobie shop on Kapiolani Boulevard. JAMS inspired Rochlen to travel the world to curate textiles and art to develop a successful label that would inspire wannabe surfing fashion brands around the world. JAMS World / Surf Line Hawaii still exists today, with shops in Honolulu’s International Market Place and Ala Moana Center. Unfortunately, it has become less than a shadow of its former self, catering more to the luau crowd than surfers.
Following JAMS World / Surf Line Hawaii’s demise was head-high wave of labels that popped up between the late 1960s and early 1970s. These included household names of Quiksilver/Roxy (1969), Rip Curl (1969), and Billabong (1973). They were later joined by the likes of Hurley (1979), Reef (1984), Volcom (1991), and RVCA (1999) and a few stragglers. However, as with O’Neill, these were surf wear labels that ultimately didn’t (and still don’t) line up with what distinguishing surfers were looking for when seeking something premium to wear out of the water, something that also made a strong statement about self-expression. The closest to do so from the era was Gotcha, which was founded in 1978 by pro surfer Michael Tomson and Joel Cooper in Laguna Beach, California. Gotcha was noted for its aggressive and punk-inspired style, featuring colors, prints, and a unique aesthetic that contrasted with the derivative surf wear labels of the time.
Has a surfing fashion brand existed since Rochlen’s JAMS lined the racks of the original Surf Line Hawaii in Honolulu? This author suggests that a massive void persisted through the last four decades or so. But things have changed as the surfing demographic has matured. This maturation has occurred at the same time as brand management firms have gobbled up practically every label that once dominated, obliterating any fashion sense that a select few had injected into the scene (RVCA had some cool collaborations). But the modern fall of big labels has been surfing fashion’s gain as independent designers eye an opportunity to craft quality limited release garments that won’t end up at TJ Maxx or Marshalls. Not so surprisingly, some of the best among them have connections to the birthplace of he’e nalu and its fashion. Ready to abandon t-shits splashed with pineapple skulls for something more upmarket in look, function, and feel? Surf Museum Hawaii (SMH) has you covered with the following recommendations.
Premium, Stylish, and Independent Surf Clothing Brands Who Honor the Lifestyle + Culture of the Hawaiian Sport of Kings and Queens
OLA CANVAS
“One might be so bold to state that companies like Florence Marine X have taken a page from OLA Canvas’ lookbook.”
OLA Canvas is a Costa Mesa, California, based clothing brand that is rooted in the surfing (and surfing adjacent) lifestyle. In fact, the brand started by crafting limited-run board bags made from military-spec canvas back in 2018. Founders Eric Sheehan and Andrew Atkinson have made their affinity with Hawaii clear in marketing messaging and imagery, but most importantly – in the creation of apparel that is made to navigate Hawaiian waters, whether perched on a surfboard or local fishing vessel. We at SMH count a number of OLA Canvas pieces in our respective closets and can tell readers firsthand that their goods are premium quality, durable, and look upscale in a yacht club kind of way, without venturing into pretentiousness. You can exit a North Shore session in one of their distinct blackball flag emblemed poly-spandex boardshorts, slide-on a limited addition tee, and head for pupus at Lei Lei’s at the Ritz Carlton Turtle Bay without getting a side-eye. One might be so bold to state that companies such as Florence Marine X have taken a page from OLA Canvas’ lookbook.
Of course, to make this list of surfing fashion brands, labels must also craft pieces that belong on sojourns to destinations where après-surf attire is expected to be slightly more apropos for the evening. This is when OLA Canvas’ relaxed fit, classic camp collared, button-ups and utility pants come out of the suitcase. Curators of upmarket surf clothing for colder destinations will also appreciate OLA Canvas’ jackets and heavy duty hoodies that hold up in some of the most frigid destinations in the world. Below is some proof in the pudding as this author comfortably wears an OLA Canvas “Single Fin” at Whistler Blackcomb in 14 °F weather:
Where to Buy in Hawaii:
NUMBER 808: 66-165 Kamehameha Hwy, Haleiwa, HI
Where to Buy Online: olacanvas.com
THE HAWAIIAN STANDARD
Based out of Kailua, Hawaii, artisan-come-seamster Joe Sparks has capitalized on the banner and flag trend that has become prevalent in surfing fashion over the last half-decade plus. He has done so better than any, creating apparel designed to connect curators of his work to the spirit, communities, and surf spots of the Hawaiian Islands.
To the touch, the care put into the stitching of each hand-cut letter onto premium textile is palpable. Moreover, Sparks’ use of combed cotton (tees) and small batch hand appliquéd raglan fleece (crewnecks) results in comfortable upper-torso wear that maintains, if not improves upon, its appearance even after numerous washes. While the clothing line is not as expansive and diverse (yet) as others on this list, collectors of surfing fashion should consider The Hawaiian Standard a must-have for their distinguished wardrobe.
Where to Buy in Hawaii:
Surf House: 57-091 Kamehameha Hwy, Kahuku, Oahu HI
Where to Buy Online: thehawaiianstandard.com
SOKFY
Sports of Kings, Forever Young (SOKFY) founders Casey Wheat (rest in paradise), Ziggy Williams, and Chris Moreno paid homage to surfing as an activity worthy of the Hawaiian elite when they created the label in 2014. Unlike most other independent surfing fashion brands, SOKFY has been going strong for more than decade thanks to their focus on quality fabrics, fit, and function for the cult and culture of wave riding. Based out of “Surf City USA” Huntington Beach, California, SOKFY produces some of the most unconventional surf fashion there is. They offer a tongue-in-cheek take on the concept, with one of their very first lines of shirts bearing “Who the Fuck is Kelly Slater?” across the chest (Slater told Wheat that he loved it). Their line of “Anti Surf, Surf Club” attire is our personal favorite, but there isn’t much that they do that doesn’t ooze cool. If you have chance to follow in the footsteps of Duke Kahanamoku, who frequented HB often (which is why they have his statue at the corner of Main & PCH and a bust of him in their surfing museum) be sure to check out SOKFY on the second floor of the Pacific City retail and entertainment complex. You’ll find a large store and manufacturing facility that is teeming with cutting edge tank tops, muscle-shirts, tees, crewnecks, v-necks, polos, button-ups, shorts, pants, and satin letterman jackets. You can’t buy SOKFY here in the Hawaiian islands so you’ll have to do what we do and order from them online. This is one label that the surfing community needs in perpetuity, so show your support accordingly.
Where to Buy in Hawaii:
Not available in-store in Hawaii.
Where to Buy Online: sokfy.com
SEVERSON ORIGINALS
Even the most casual surfing historian understands the importance of the Severson name. John Severson was the founder of SURFER Magazine, a surf filmmaker / photographer, and was essentially responsible for discovering the man who introduced MURPHY to our world. He also created some of the greatest works of surf art to ever exist from the moment he moved his family to the island of Maui in 1971. Through the 1990s, Severson also collaborated with Kahala to design museum-worthy aloha shirts that are sought after by collectors from around the planet. So when his nephews Benji and Dan Severson opened Severson Originals in San Clemente CA, we knew something special was brewing. We weren’t wrong. The heritage shop’s surfing apparel showcases Severson family artwork, doing so in a manner that blends class, comfort, and a caliber that is synonymous with the epithet. Help ensure that the Severson name stays at the forefront of our culture by wearing it on your future surfing adventures.
Where to Buy in Hawaii:
Not available in-store in Hawaii.
Where to Buy Online: seversonoriginals.com
OUTERKNOWN
By now you know Outerknown because of its founder and figurehead – 11 X World Surf League CT champion Kelly Slater. You also know that the label is recognized for its use of eco-conscious, superior quality, sustainable textiles and material and for creating pieces that are organic and subdued from a visual perspective. That being said, Outerknown does release limited items each annum to let surfers wear their hearts on their sleeves by honoring surfing history. Notable releases from this vein include their Bruce Brown collections, including Surfing Hollow Days and Endless Summer. They also released an uber-cool Tom Blake line back in 2023. We look forward to seeing what they collaborate on next!
Where to Buy in Hawaii:
Hawaiian South Shore: 320 Ward Ave #112, Honolulu, Oahu HI
Where to Buy Online: outerknown.com
BIRDWELL
Birdwell has been around since 1961. While they’ve never operated their own dedicated shop in Hawaii, Birdwell has a strong connection to Hawaiian surf culture. They have done collaborations with local brands like Kahala and frequently feature local surfers in their marketing – including Oahu’s south shore shaper TOOTS:
Birdwell’s line has become more diverse through the years, releasing cardigan and crewneck sweaters that would fit right in at evening surf shindigs in Montauk NY. However, they continue to focus on what they do best – board shorts and competition jackets. These are staples in classic surfing attire, and the latter is where Birdwell shines brightest. Their competition jackets are tuxedo blazers of the surfing world, worn on the red carpet for the Honolulu Surf Film Festival and surf cinema premieres around the world.
Where to Buy in Hawaii:
Island Paddler: 716 Kapahulu Ave, Honolulu, Oahu HI
Where to Buy Online: birdwell.com
TENŌRE
Soon after the dark empire known as Authentic Brands Group acquired RVCA as part of a $1.2 billion purchase of the entire Boardriders portfolio (including Billabong, Quiksilver, etc.) in Q3 of 2023, RVCA founder Pat Tenore launched TENŌRE. The latter may be considered the natural evolution of RVCA’s earlier foray into edgier surfing attire. The result, is a premium lifestyle brand that focuses on authentic, durable, and fashion forward clothing designed primarily for the surfing community, but also closely connects to MMA and street culture. Despite its infancy, TENŌRE has already entered into collaborations with luxury brands like Lusso Cloud and Homerun with many more on the docket for the year ahead. SMH also appreciates TENŌRE’s support of local Hawaiian surfers, including World Surf League Longboard Tour standouts, Kaniela Stewart and Kelis Kaleopaa.
Where to Buy in Hawaii
TENŌRE Store: 2250 Kalākaua Ave Suite 104, Waikiki Beach, Honolulu, Oahu HI
Where to Buy Online: tenore.com
Do you represent an up and coming label that honors Hawaiian surfing culture that you feel would be a great addition to this list? DM SMH @surfmuseumhawaii to tell us all about it.
